Sunflower Granny Square Crochet Backpack

There are crochet projects you make because they’re practical, and then there are crochet projects you make because you simply cannot stop thinking about them. This sunflower granny square backpack is firmly in the second category.

Built from bold sunflower granny squares — each one with a rich chocolate brown center, golden yellow petals, and a crisp cream border — this backpack is the kind of handmade accessory that turns heads everywhere you take it. Farmers markets, weekend trips, beach days, coffee runs — it works for all of it. And the wooden bead drawstring closure? Perfection.

In this tutorial, I’ll walk you through making the sunflower squares, assembling the bag body and flap, constructing the structure, and adding the finishing details including the drawstring, wooden beads, fabric straps, and top handle. The result is a fully functional, structured mini backpack that looks like something you’d find in a boutique for $80 — except you made it yourself.

Finished size: Approximately 11 inches wide x 12 inches tall (not including straps), with a structured boxy shape and a generous front flap.

Skill level: Intermediate. You should be comfortable with granny squares and basic construction. No advanced techniques required — just patience and attention to detail during assembly.

Yarn colors used in this pattern: Cream / off-white (main color), golden yellow (petals), chocolate brown (centers).

Quick Answers

Is this backpack beginner friendly? The individual sunflower squares are beginner friendly if you have basic granny square experience. The bag construction — attaching the base, adding structure, sewing in the lining, and attaching the straps — makes this an intermediate project overall. If you’ve made a bag before, you’ll feel right at home.

What yarn works best for a bag like this? Cotton yarn is the clear winner here. It holds its shape, doesn’t stretch out over time, and washes beautifully. Look for a worsted weight or bulky cotton — something with good stitch definition so those sunflower petals really pop. T-shirt yarn or a cotton-acrylic blend also works well if you want extra durability.

What hook size should I use? A 4.5 mm to 5.0 mm hook works well with worsted weight cotton. Go up to a 5.5 mm if you want a slightly more open, drapey fabric. For a structured bag, tighter tension is actually better — err on the smaller hook side.

How many granny squares do I need? You’ll need approximately 9 full sunflower squares for the main body and flap, plus additional cream yarn for the base and gusset sections. Exact square count depends slightly on your tension and finished square size.

Can I use store-bought straps? Absolutely — and I recommend it. The backpack in the photo uses flat fabric/webbing straps in a natural cream/beige color, which adds durability and avoids the stretch issues that crocheted straps can develop over time under weight. You can find webbing straps at any craft or fabric store.

How do I make it sturdy enough to actually use as a bag? Adding a sewn fabric lining is the number one thing that transforms this from a decorative piece into a real, functional backpack. I’ll walk you through the lining in the finishing steps. You can also insert a piece of plastic canvas or a thin craft foam sheet into the base for extra structure.

Materials Needed

Yarn:

Worsted weight cotton yarn (or cotton-blend)
Main color: Cream / off-white — approximately 400–450 yards
Color A: Golden yellow — approximately 150–180 yards
Color B: Chocolate brown — approximately 60–80 yards
Total yarn needed: Approximately 650–700 yards

Hook:

4.5 mm crochet hook (adjust based on gauge)

Tools:

Scissors
Yarn needle
Stitch markers
Measuring tape
Blocking mat and pins

Additional materials:

Flat webbing straps in cream/natural — approximately 1.5 yards total, cut into two equal lengths for the backpack straps
1 additional short length of webbing (approximately 8–10 inches) for the top carry handle, or crochet one in cream yarn
3–4 large round wooden beads (for the drawstring closure detail)
Fabric for lining — approximately half a yard of lightweight canvas, muslin, or cotton fabric in cream or natural
Sewing needle and thread (or sewing machine) for the lining
1 magnetic snap closure or button (optional, for the flap)
Plastic canvas sheet or thin craft foam (optional, for base structure)

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Make Your Sunflower Granny Squares

Every part of this backpack starts with the sunflower square, so your first task is making a full set. You’ll need 9 squares for the main panels. Each square should measure approximately 5 x 5 inches after light blocking.

How to make one sunflower granny square:

Round 1 — The center (chocolate brown): Start with a magic ring. Chain 3 (counts as first double crochet). Work 11 more double crochets into the ring — 12 double crochets total. Join with a slip stitch to the top of your starting chain 3. Pull the magic ring closed. Do not fasten off yet.

Round 2 — Petal base (chocolate brown): Chain 1. Work one single crochet into the same stitch. Chain 3, skip one stitch, single crochet into the next stitch. Repeat (chain 3, skip one, single crochet) all the way around — you’ll have 6 chain-3 loops total. Join with a slip stitch. Fasten off brown.

Round 3 — Petals (golden yellow): Join golden yellow in any chain-3 loop. In each loop, work: single crochet, half double crochet, 3 double crochets, half double crochet, single crochet — this is one petal. Work a petal into each of the 6 chain-3 loops. You now have 6 raised, rounded petals. Do not fasten off yet.

Round 4 — Behind the petals (golden yellow): This round works behind the petals to create the second ring of petals. Working behind the petal you just made, insert your hook into the single crochet stitch from Round 2 (the stitch between the chain-3 loops). Single crochet into that stitch, then chain 4. Repeat — single crochet behind each petal base, chain 4 — creating 6 new chain-4 loops sitting behind the first round of petals. Join with a slip stitch. Do not fasten off.

Round 5 — Outer petals (golden yellow): Work into the chain-4 loops from Round 4. In each loop: single crochet, half double crochet, 4 double crochets, half double crochet, single crochet — a slightly larger petal. Work one into each loop. You now have a full double layer of sunflower petals — a smaller inner ring and a larger outer ring. Fasten off golden yellow.

Round 6 — Granny square border, Round 1 (cream): Join cream in the space between any two outer petals. Chain 3, work 2 double crochets in the same space. Chain 2 (corner). Work 3 double crochets in the next space between petals. Continue around, working 3 double crochet clusters in the spaces between petals and chain-2 corner spaces at the four corner positions. You are essentially converting the round flower shape into a square here — place your four corners evenly (approximately every 3 petal gaps). Join and fasten off.

Round 7 — Border Round 2 (cream): Join cream in any corner space. Work standard granny square construction: 3 double crochets, chain 2, 3 double crochets in each corner; 3 double crochets, chain 1 in each side space. Join and fasten off. Repeat this round one more time for a wider, more structured border.

Make 9 squares total. Take your time with these — the sunflower center is the star of the whole bag, so neat, even petals matter.

Step 2: Make the Bag Base

The base is a simple rectangle crocheted separately in cream yarn. It forms the flat bottom of the backpack and gives the bag its structure.

Chain 25 in cream. Work in rows of half double crochet (or single crochet for a firmer fabric) until the rectangle measures approximately 5 x 11 inches. This will be the base panel.

If you want a stiffer base, cut a piece of plastic canvas to the same dimensions and sandwich it inside the lining fabric when you sew the lining. This makes a huge difference in how the finished bag holds its shape.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Step 3: Make the Gusset Strips

The gusset strips are narrow panels of cream crochet that connect the front and back panels of the bag and give it depth — this is what makes it a real bag rather than a flat pouch.

Chain enough to work a strip approximately 3 inches wide. Work in rows of half double crochet or moss stitch (alternating single crochet and chain 1) until the strip is long enough to run down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side of the bag. For an 11-inch tall bag with a 5-inch wide base, you need a gusset strip approximately 27–28 inches long.

Make two gusset strips if you prefer to attach them separately, or one continuous strip if you’re comfortable working a longer panel.

Alternatively, if you prefer a simpler construction: skip the separate gusset and instead join your front and back panels edge-to-edge with a thick border of single crochet that creates visual depth without a structural gusset. Either approach works.

Step 4: Assemble the Front and Back Panels

Front panel: Arrange 4 sunflower squares in a 2 x 2 grid. Join using the flat slip stitch method (same as the bolero pattern — wrong sides together, slip stitch through back loops only in cream yarn). Your front panel should measure approximately 10 x 10 inches.

Back panel: Arrange another 4 sunflower squares in a 2 x 2 grid and join the same way.

Flap: Take your remaining sunflower square (your 9th square) and add a cream border of 2–3 additional rounds to create a slightly wider, more rectangular flap shape — approximately 10 x 6 inches. This is the front flap that folds over the top of the bag.

Block all three panels lightly before continuing to assembly.

Step 5: Build the Bag Body

Join the front panel to the gusset strip by slip stitching or single crocheting the strip around the two sides and bottom of the front panel in cream yarn. Repeat with the back panel on the other side of the gusset strip. You now have a three-dimensional bag body — two square panels connected by a narrow strip forming the sides and bottom.

Attach the base rectangle to the bottom opening, slip stitching it into place around all four edges. Stuff a piece of plastic canvas or foam into the base before closing for structure if desired.

At this point, try placing something inside the bag to test the shape and check that your seams are secure before continuing.

Common mistake: Not reinforcing the base join. The bottom of a bag takes a lot of stress. Go around the base seam twice for extra security.

Step 6: Attach the Flap and Top Edge Finish

Work 1–2 rounds of single crochet in cream around the top opening of the bag to neaten the edge and add structure.

Position the flap so it aligns with the back panel, centered left to right. Slip stitch the straight back edge of the flap securely to the top edge of the back panel. The flap should fold naturally forward over the front of the bag.

If you want a closure, attach a magnetic snap — one side to the underside of the flap and the matching side to the front panel below. A large button and button loop works beautifully here too and adds to the handmade aesthetic.

Step 7: Add the Drawstring and Wooden Beads

The drawstring detail running across the top of the front panel is one of the most charming features of this bag. It also functions as a loose closure.

Cut a length of cream yarn approximately 30–35 inches. Thread it through the top edge of the bag using the spaces in the crochet fabric as natural channels — weave it in and out across the front panel just below the top edge. Pull both ends out at the center front.

Thread 3–4 large wooden beads onto both yarn ends together (or one per end). Knot the yarn below the beads to hold them in place. The beads add weight that keeps the drawstring from slipping back through, and they look absolutely gorgeous as a finishing detail.

Step 8: Attach the Straps and Handle

Backpack straps: Cut two equal lengths of flat webbing strap — approximately 18–22 inches each, depending on how long you want the shoulder straps. Fold each end under by about an inch and hand-stitch or machine-stitch to secure. Attach one end of each strap to the bottom corners of the back panel and the other end to the top corners of the back panel, stitching securely through the crochet fabric with a strong thread or thin yarn. Stitch a box-with-X pattern for maximum strength.

Top carry handle: Attach a short length of webbing (approximately 8–10 inches) to the center top of the back panel as a carry handle. Alternatively, crochet a handle: chain 25 in cream, work 2 rows of single crochet, then attach both ends securely to the top center back of the bag.

Step 9: Sew the Lining

Cut your lining fabric into panels matching the front, back, and gusset of the bag interior. Sew the lining pieces together with a half-inch seam allowance, wrong sides out, forming a fabric bag that mirrors the crochet shell. Press the seams flat.

Slip the lining inside the crochet bag with wrong sides together. Fold the top edge of the lining under by about half an inch and hand-stitch it neatly to the inside of the crochet top edge with a whip stitch in matching thread. Work slowly and keep the stitches small so they don’t show on the outside.

The lining transforms the bag completely — it covers all the interior seams, protects the structure, and makes the bag feel polished and professional.

Pro Tips

Tight tension makes better bags. Unlike garments and blankets where drape is desirable, bags benefit from a tighter, denser fabric that holds its shape. Don’t be afraid to go down a hook size from what the yarn label recommends.

Block your squares before assembly. Even a 5-minute steam block helps your sunflower squares lie perfectly flat and makes joining much cleaner. Unblocked squares have a tendency to cup slightly at the corners.

Reinforce all attachment points twice. Strap attachment points, the base seam, and the flap seam all take significant stress during regular use. Going around each join a second time adds maybe five minutes of work and dramatically increases how long the bag holds up.

Use a stitch marker to mark your center front. When attaching the gusset and lining everything up, it’s very easy for the bag to shift slightly off-center. Mark the center stitch on your front and back panels and use those markers as alignment guides throughout assembly.

Test your wooden beads before buying a lot. Wooden bead sizes vary a lot between brands. Bring a length of your yarn to the craft store and thread it through the bead to confirm it fits comfortably before committing.

Fabric glue is your friend for the lining. If hand-stitching the lining feels intimidating, fabric glue (the washable kind) applied to the fold-over edge is a completely valid option that holds up well with cotton fabric.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Skipping the lining. An unlined crochet bag is technically finished, but practically it sags, stretches, and looks unfinished inside. The lining is the step that makes this a real bag. Don’t skip it.

Making the sunflower petals too loose. If your tension is too loose in the petal rounds, the petals flop and look floppy rather than defined and raised. Work the petal rounds with slightly tighter tension than feels natural — the structure improves significantly.

Miscounting petal spaces when starting the square border. The trickiest part of converting the round flower into a square is placing your four corners evenly. Count carefully — you want approximately the same number of petal gaps between each corner placement. If your border comes out lopsided, it usually means the corners weren’t placed evenly. It’s worth frogging and redoing rather than hoping blocking fixes it.

Using a yarn that’s too stretchy. Acrylic yarn has a lot of stretch and memory. For a bag, this means it will deform over time under the weight of your belongings. Stick to cotton, cotton-blend, or a cotton-jute blend for the best long-term structure.

Attaching the straps without reinforcing through multiple layers. A single row of slip stitch through the crochet fabric alone is not enough to hold a loaded backpack. When attaching webbing straps, sew through the crochet fabric and the lining fabric together using strong thread, and stitch that box-with-X pattern at every attachment point.

Final Thoughts

This sunflower backpack is one of those projects that earns its reputation. It takes real time — making 9 detailed sunflower squares, assembling a structured bag, sewing a lining — but every step is worth it. The finished piece is something you’ll use for years and treasure forever.

Take it one square at a time. Enjoy each sunflower as its own little project. And when you finally slip those straps over your shoulders and head out into the world carrying something you made entirely with your own hands — that feeling is absolutely unbeatable.

Save This for Later!

Love this pattern? Save this Pin to your Crochet Board so you can find it whenever you’re ready to start — and share it with a friend who loves sunflowers as much as you do!