Wayuu-Style Tapestry Crochet Backpack

Some crochet projects are pretty. Some are functional. And then some are both — the kind of thing you carry out of the house and someone stops you on the street to ask where you got it. This Wayuu-style tapestry crochet backpack is absolutely that project.

Inspired by the bold geometric patterns of traditional Wayuu mochilas from Colombia and Venezuela, this backpack takes that same graphic, high-contrast aesthetic and builds it into a fully structured, roomy bag with a rounded barrel body, a smooth oversized flap, a tassel closure, and slim shoulder straps. The color palette is warm and earthy — natural sand beige as the main color, with deep charcoal and rich burnt orange/mustard forming the geometric diamond and zigzag pattern on the body.

What makes this bag look so impressive is the tapestry crochet technique used for the patterned section. Tapestry crochet carries unused yarn colors inside the stitches as you work, creating a dense, firm, beautifully clean colorwork fabric with no floats on the back. It sounds more complex than it is — once you get the rhythm of carrying and catching your colors, it becomes almost meditative.

Finished size: Approximately 11 inches wide x 13 inches tall (body), with a rounded base approximately 5 inches in diameter.

Skill level: Intermediate. You need to be comfortable working in the round and willing to learn basic tapestry crochet colorwork. If you’ve done color changes before, this is a natural next step.

Yarn colors used in this pattern: Natural sand beige (main color), deep charcoal / dark grey-brown (Color A), burnt orange / mustard (Color B).

Quick Answers

What is tapestry crochet and is it hard to learn? Tapestry crochet is a colorwork technique where you work with two or more colors at once, carrying the unused color inside your stitches so there are no loose yarn tails or floats on the back. The fabric comes out dense, firm, and perfectly clean on both sides. It sounds intimidating but the mechanics are simple — you’re just doing regular single crochets while holding an extra strand of yarn. Most crafters get comfortable with it within an hour of practice.

What yarn works best for this bag? Cotton rope yarn, macramé cotton, or a sturdy worsted-to-bulky cotton gives you that firm, structured basket-like fabric you see in the photo. Avoid soft, stretchy yarns — this bag gets its gorgeous shape from the density of the tapestry fabric, and a soft acrylic will produce a saggy result. Look for 3-ply or 5-ply cotton cord in the 3mm–5mm range.

What hook size should I use? A 4.0 mm to 5.0 mm hook is ideal for cotton rope or macramé cord. You want a tight, dense fabric — go down a hook size from what the yarn label recommends if needed.

How difficult is the geometric pattern? Not as hard as it looks. The pattern on the body is a repeating chevron/diamond motif worked from a simple chart. Once you complete the first repeat, your hands remember the sequence and it flows naturally. I’ll include a written color sequence for each row so you don’t need to read a chart if you prefer not to.

Can I skip the colorwork and make a solid color version? Absolutely. A solid sand beige version with just the flap and tassel would be stunning in its own right. You can also simplify the colorwork to just one contrast color instead of two if you want an easier introduction to tapestry technique.

How do I get the rounded barrel shape? The body is worked in the round with strategic increases at the base and a straight cylinder for the main body section. The shape comes naturally from working in the round — no shaping tricks required beyond the base increases.

Materials Needed

Yarn:

3-ply or 5-ply cotton rope / macramé cotton cord, worsted to bulky weight
Main color: Natural sand beige — approximately 350–400 yards
Color A: Deep charcoal / dark grey-brown — approximately 100–120 yards
Color B: Burnt orange / mustard — approximately 80–100 yards
Total yarn needed: Approximately 550–620 yards

Hook:

4.5 mm crochet hook (adjust based on gauge and yarn weight)

Tools:

Scissors
Yarn needle
Stitch markers (at least 2 — one for start of round, one for pattern tracking)
Measuring tape
Tapestry crochet color chart or written pattern (included in tutorial)

Additional materials:

1 swivel clip / lobster clasp (silver or antique brass tone) for the flap closure — approximately 1 inch wide
Leather or faux leather brand tag (optional, for the decorative label detail on the flap)
Flat cotton webbing straps in natural beige, approximately 1.5 yards total — or crochet your own
Fabric for lining — approximately half a yard of sturdy cotton canvas in natural/cream
Sewing needle and strong thread for lining and strap attachment
Plastic canvas or thin craft foam sheet for base structure (optional but recommended)
Mixed fringe yarn in beige, charcoal, and mustard for the tassel

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Make the Circular Base

The base of the backpack is a flat circle worked in the round in your main sand beige color. This creates the rounded bottom that gives the bag its barrel shape.

Magic ring method: Start with a magic ring. Single crochet 6 into the ring. Pull tight to close. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

Round 1: 2 single crochets in each stitch — 12 stitches total.

Round 2: Alternate 1 single crochet, then 2 single crochets in the next stitch all the way around — 18 stitches total.

Round 3: 1 single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches, then 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat around — 24 stitches total.

Round 4: 1 single crochet in each of the next 3 stitches, then 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat around — 30 stitches total.

Continue this increase pattern — adding one more single crochet between increase points each round — until your base measures approximately 5 inches in diameter. For most yarn weights this is around 6–7 rounds. Your final stitch count will be approximately 36–42 stitches.

Do not fasten off. You’ll continue directly up into the body of the bag.

Pro tip: Keep your tension tight on the base. A loose base creates a floppy, shapeless bag. If your base is starting to cup or ruffle, adjust your tension accordingly — cupping means too tight, ruffling means too loose.

Step 2: Work the Solid Lower Body

Before beginning the colorwork section, work several rounds of solid single crochet in your main sand beige color. This creates the plain lower band you can see at the bottom of the bag in the photo.

Work straight (no increases — you’re now building the cylinder walls) in continuous rounds of single crochet in sand beige until the solid lower section measures approximately 2–3 inches tall.

Keep your tension firm and even throughout. The solid lower section should look and feel almost like a woven fabric — dense, structured, and smooth.

Step 3: Work the Tapestry Colorwork Section

This is the star of the bag — the bold geometric chevron and diamond pattern that makes this backpack so striking. The pattern on the body uses all three colors: sand beige (main), deep charcoal (Color A), and burnt orange/mustard (Color B).

How tapestry crochet works: You’ll work with two colors at a time — your active color and one carried color. To carry a color, simply hold the unused yarn strand along the top of your previous round’s stitches and work your single crochets over it, encasing it inside each stitch. When you need to switch colors, work the last pull-through of your stitch with the new color. The carried color stays hidden inside the stitches — no floats, clean finish on both sides.

Geometric pattern sequence (worked over your stitch count, approximately 36–42 stitches per round):

The pattern creates a repeating chevron-diamond motif. Work the following color sequence across each round, repeating the motif to fill the round:

Motif repeat (approximately 12 stitches per repeat):

3 stitches in sand beige
2 stitches in charcoal
1 stitch in mustard
2 stitches in charcoal
4 stitches in sand beige
Repeat

Work this base chevron sequence for 2 rounds, then shift the pattern by beginning the charcoal sections 1 stitch to the right on the next 2 rounds to create the diagonal movement of the design. Continue shifting and repeating to build the full geometric diamond pattern.

Alternate between charcoal-dominant rounds and mustard-dominant rounds every 4–6 rounds to create the layered, multi-color geometric effect visible in the photo. The exact color sequencing is flexible — use the photo as your visual guide and adjust the proportions of charcoal vs mustard to match your preference.

Continue the colorwork section until the bag body (solid base + colorwork) measures approximately 10–11 inches tall total.

Common mistake: Pulling the carried yarn too tight. When you carry a yarn strand inside your stitches, it should sit relaxed — not pulled snug — or the fabric will pucker. Practice keeping your carried yarn loose as you work over it.

Step 4: Finish the Top Edge of the Body

Once your colorwork section is complete, work 1–2 rounds of single crochet in solid sand beige to create a clean, finished top edge on the bag body.

On your final round, work a round of slip stitches or a crab stitch (reverse single crochet) border in sand beige for a polished, slightly rolled edge that reinforces the top opening.

Fasten off and weave in any loose ends from color changes as you go — tapestry crochet generates fewer ends than traditional colorwork but still requires careful finishing.

Step 5: Make the Flap

The flap is one of the most visually distinctive parts of this bag — it’s a wide, smooth, rounded shape in solid sand beige that arches over the front of the bag and closes with the swivel clip.

Work the flap separately in solid sand beige. Chain 22 (or a number that produces approximately 8 inches of width at your gauge).

Row 1: Single crochet across — 22 stitches. Turn.

Rows 2–10: Single crochet across each row, working increases at both ends of every other row to create a gently widening shape. Increase by working 2 single crochets in the first and last stitch of the increase rows.

Shaping the rounded bottom edge: Once the flap is approximately 5–6 inches tall, begin decreasing at both ends every other row to create the rounded arch shape at the bottom of the flap. Work standard single crochet decreases (insert hook in first stitch, pull up loop, insert hook in second stitch, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through all three loops).

Once the flap has reached your desired shape — wide at the top, gently rounded at the bottom — work one border round of single crochet all the way around the outer edge of the flap in sand beige. This cleans up the edges and gives the flap its smooth, structured look.

Attach a leather or faux leather brand tag to the center lower edge of the flap for that authentic artisan detail.

Step 6: Attach the Flap and Swivel Clip Closure

Position the flap so the straight top edge aligns with the back top edge of the bag body. The flap should arc forward naturally over the front opening.

Slip stitch or single crochet the straight top edge of the flap securely to the back top edge of the bag body, working through both layers for a strong join.

Attach the swivel clip to the center front lower edge of the flap — work a small chain loop or attach a short length of crochet cord to the flap edge and clip the swivel through it. Attach a corresponding loop or D-ring to the front of the bag body so the clip has something to hook onto. This creates the functional clip closure you see in the photo.

Step 7: Make and Attach the Tassel

The tassel is that gorgeous finishing detail that hangs from the swivel clip and makes this bag look unmistakably handmade and boho. It’s one of the quickest and most satisfying steps.

Cut lengths of yarn approximately 14–16 inches long in all three colors — sand beige, charcoal, and burnt orange/mustard. You want a generous, full tassel so cut at least 30–40 strands total, mixing the colors as you like.

Bundle all the strands together, fold in half, and loop the folded end through the swivel clip ring. Pull the tails through the loop and tighten to attach.

Wrap a length of charcoal or mustard yarn tightly around all the strands approximately 1 inch below the clip attachment point to create the tassel neck. Wrap several times, knot securely, and thread the tying yarn back down through the tassel to hide it.

Trim the tassel ends evenly. For a more textured, mixed look, leave the strands slightly different lengths and allow them to separate naturally.

Step 8: Attach the Straps and Handle

Shoulder straps: Cut two equal lengths of flat cotton webbing strap in natural beige — approximately 20–24 inches each. Fold each end under and stitch to secure. Attach one end of each strap to the bottom back of the bag body and the other end to the top back, positioned on either side of the flap attachment point. Stitch securely using a box-with-X pattern through both the crochet fabric and lining layers.

Top carry loop: Attach a short folded length of webbing (approximately 6–8 inches folded in half) to the top center back of the bag as a carry handle, stitching both ends securely side by side.

For a more handmade look, crochet the handle in sand beige: chain 30, single crochet back along the chain, then attach both ends to the top center back.

Step 9: Add the Lining

Cut your lining fabric into a rectangle long enough to wrap around the interior of the bag and a circle for the base. Sew the rectangle into a tube, then sew the circle base onto the tube. Press seams flat and trim excess.

Slip the lining inside the bag with wrong sides together. Fold the top edge under and hand-stitch it neatly to the inside top edge of the crochet bag using small whip stitches in matching thread.

If using a base insert, cut your plastic canvas or foam to match the base circle and slip it between the crochet base and the lining before closing. This keeps the base flat and firm under the weight of the bag contents.

Pro Tips

Practice tapestry crochet on a swatch first. Work a small 20-stitch x 10-row sample in your three colors before starting the bag. Getting comfortable with carrying and switching colors in a no-stakes swatch means you’ll work much more confidently and evenly on the actual bag.

Keep a consistent yarn tension on the carried color. The single biggest factor in how clean tapestry colorwork looks is how consistently you carry the unused yarn. Too tight — the fabric puckers. Too loose — bumps of carried yarn peek through the stitches. The sweet spot is carried yarn that’s relaxed but not drooping.

Use stitch markers generously. Mark the beginning of each round and mark the beginning of each pattern repeat. Tapestry crochet in the round is very easy to lose track of, especially in the early rounds. More markers, fewer mistakes.

Work the base tighter than feels natural. A firm base makes a structured bag. A loose base makes a floppy one. If you’re unsure, go down half a hook size for the base rounds only, then return to your regular hook for the body.

Steam block the finished bag. A light steam blocking — hold a steam iron a few inches above the surface and let the steam penetrate — relaxes the stitches, evens out any tension variations, and helps the bag hold its shape beautifully. Don’t wet block a structured bag — steam is cleaner and more controlled.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Pulling color changes too tight. When you switch colors in tapestry crochet, the tension of the color change affects the whole fabric. Practice pulling your color changes through with the same gentle tension as your regular stitches.

Losing the round start. In continuous rounds without a slip stitch join, the start of the round slowly spirals. Place a stitch marker and move it up every round — don’t rely on memory.

Making the colorwork section before the base is complete. Always complete and check your base circle before moving up into the body. A base that’s too small or too large will affect the proportions of the entire bag.

Skipping the lining. Tapestry crochet fabric is dense and structured, but without a lining your belongings will catch on the inner stitches and the bag interior looks raw. The lining is a 30-minute step that transforms the bag completely.

Attaching the swivel clip without reinforcing the attachment point. The clip takes repeated stress every time you open and close the bag. Reinforce the loop or chain it attaches to with extra stitches or by working through the attachment several times. A broken closure is the most common functional failure on handmade bags.

Final Thoughts

This is the kind of bag that becomes a signature piece. The moment you carry it, people notice. The tapestry colorwork looks complex and impressive, but now you know the secret — it’s just single crochets with an extra strand of yarn riding along inside. One careful stitch at a time.

Work through it patiently. Enjoy the rhythm of the colorwork once it clicks. And when the tassel is attached and the strap is over your shoulder — you’ll understand completely why this project was worth every minute.

Save This for Later!

Love this pattern? Save this Pin to your Crochet Board so you can come back to it whenever you’re ready — and share it with a friend who’s been looking for their next big crochet project!